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Sometimes watching them I couldn't believe that they could head out so offhandedly into the ocean—this ocean, which had rolls of white water coming in as fast as you could count them, and had a razor-blade reef hidden just below the surface, and was full of sharks. That day, her famous hair was woven into a long red braid that hung over her left shoulder. In the past few years the Hawaiian economy had sagged terribly, and Hana had never had much of an economy to begin with. They pillow-fought for an hour, watched "Sabrina, the Teenage Witch" and "Boy Meets World" and another episode of "Sabrina," then watched a couple of Kelly Slater surfing videos, had another pillow fight, ate a few bowls of cereal, then watched Fear of a Black Hat , a movie spoofing the rap-music world that they had seen so many times that they could recite most of the dialogue by heart. Is your dad going to surf in the contest this weekend. It was the day before a surfing competition, and the girls were going to spend the night at their coach's house up the coast so they'd be ready for the contest at dawn. Theresa was the first to head out the door. More snack money, even. As she was eating, Lilia said, "You know, the Olympics are going to have surfing, either in the year or , for sure. The girl making the French knot stopped knotting. It means you're beautiful and tan and ready to rip.

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Description: She was very shy and hardly said a word to them, they told me, except to suggest they go surf Girlie Bowls. As she was eating, Lilia said, "You know, the Olympics are going to have surfing, either in the year or , for sure. She was like some unassailable force. The men's and boys' heats were narrated over the PA system, but during the girls' and women's heats the announcer was silent, and the biggest racket was the cheering of Matt's team. You should paddle out harder. When I said a Hana girl could have a pure surfing adolescence, I knew it was part daydream, because no matter how sweet the position of a beautiful, groovy Hawaiian teenager might be in the world of perceptions, the mean measures of the human world don't ever go away. Is your dad going to surf in the contest this weekend. They live in salvaged boxcars or huts or sagging shacks just to be near the waves. Hardly any are likely to make it as pro surfers—even though women have made a place for themselves in pro surfing, the number who really make it is still small, and even though the Hana girls rule Maui surfing, the island's soft-shell waves and easygoing competitions have produced very few world-class surfers in recent years. Boys who surfed got a lot more for free. It was a lovely morning and they were definitely ready to show Hana surfing to the world. Lucky for these Hana girls, surfing has changed. Last year, the surfer moms in town held a fund-raiser bake sale to send Theresa and two Hana boys to the national surfing competition in California.
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